Surviving a Drought
After suffering though a few very dry summers, most of us are looking for things we can do to keep our landscapes alive and well during a drought. Let’s look at five areas that can make a difference:
1. Soil
2. Plant selection
3. Lawn areas
4. Proper watering
5. Cultural practices
We will discuss each of these topics in more detail.
We should begin from the ground up! Good soil is the basis for healthy plants and for the optimum use of water. Organic matter is the key to good soil. Adding organic matter to sandy soil will help it hold water and nutrients better. Clay soils will absorb water faster if organic matter is added. And this will reduce water runoff and erosion. Two to three inches of compost, shredded leaves, or other finely ground organic matter should be incorporated into your soil. This can be repeated for several years until your soil is a rich, easily-tilled loam. In areas where you have established trees and shrubs, a few inches of shredded leaves or wood chips added to the surface of the soil will gradually decompose and leach into the ground, making it better able to absorb water. I am sure you have heard compost referred to as “black gold” because it is worth so much to your soil and plants. Make your own with a compost pile of shredded leaves and other plant material and organic food waste.
“Xeriscape” is a word often seen in garden literature these days. For some people the word brings to mind a cactus garden. The word actually comes from ‘xero’ or ‘xer’ meaning dry, and ‘scape’ meaning scene or view. “Xeriscape” was trademarked by the National Xeriscape Council in Texas to promote appropriate techniques to save water while maintaining healthy and attractive landscapes. In other words, you don’t have to grow only cacti to have a garden that will survive during dry weather. Selecting plants native to the area in which you live has benefits. Native plants are those that have been growing here since the settlers arrived. They have adapted to the environment over a long period of time and may be more resistant to drought, as well as insects and diseases. Non-native plants can also perform will in our climate; visit nurseries and notice other gardens for ideas.
Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, recommends the following trees as ones that can tolerate drought: gray birch, juniper, golden rain tree, Virginia pine, chestnut oak, locust, hackberry, Osage orange, Chinese Pistache, lacebark elm, and sassafras
Drought tolerant shrubs include amur maple, Japanese barberry, quince, smoke tree, Scotch broom, Russian olive, witch hazel, privet, sumac, and yucca.
She suggests these ground cover plants: yarrow, crown vetch, sweet William, daylilies, santolina, creeping phlox, and St. Johnswort.
Some perennials that are adapted to dry locations include: snow-in-summer, butterfly weed, blanket flower, cushion spurge, myrtle euphorbia, Cypress spurge, sea pink, threadleaf coreopsis, black-eyed Susan, rock soapwort, sea holly, liatris, New England aster, sun flower, statice, Iceland poppy, rudbeckia, and lavender cotton. Consider adding ornamental grasses to your landscape. They need little water and add texture and movement to the garden.
Keep in mind, all plants will need adequate water to become established. Container grown plants are grown in a porous soil mixture that dries out very quickly. In the nursery they are watered daily. Until the plant has time for its roots to penetrate the soil where it is planted, all of its water supply must come from the original soil mixture. That is why it is generally preferred to plant trees and shrubs in the fall when rain is more frequent and the roots can become established before drier weather arrives.
Most of us will want some plants not on the “drought tolerant” list. Group those plants with high water requirements together in a small area that is easily watered. Locate this garden in a highly visible location where it can be readily enjoyed.
Select the variety of turf grass that is best suited to your site and climate. Limit the size of the area of lawn since it requires more water than do ground covers or planted areas that are mulched.
Do not mow the grass too short – two to three inches tall is best for fescues. This height allows the blades of grass to shade the roots and prevent water evaporation. Cut the lawn less frequently and use a mulching mower which will cut the clippings finely and let them settle into the lawn and decompose. This is the easy way to compost grass clippings!
If watering becomes necessary, do it wisely. The use of drip or trickle irrigation rather than sprinklers will save water. Sprinklers lose excessive amounts of water to evaporation during watering and from the plant and soil surfaces. Frequently sprinklers put water on walkways or other hard surfaces where it is wasted. Drip irrigation systems apply the water to the soil where it is needed to maintain a constant level suitable to plant uptake. Soaker hoses are probably the least expensive and easiest to use method of drip irrigation. Soaker hoses arefibrous hoses that allow water to drip out along their length at a slow rate. They can be buried under mulch so as not to be noticed.
Water early in the morning to reduce evaporation. Water deeply and less often. Deep watering promotes deep root growth and deep roots will not dry out as fast.
Containers with small holes in the bottom can be placed near the trunk of trees or shrubs, and filled with water which will slowly soak into the ground. These can be obtained commercially or you can improvise and make your own. Either way, this is an efficient way to water.
The use of rain barrels is another option. A barrel placed under the downspout of your roof will collect water to use when there is no rain. Rain gardens can be made to collect run-off water and these can be an attractive addition to the landscape. Another option is to recycle “grey” water. That is water that has been used for washing dishes, clothes, or even people! Placing a large bucket in the shower will collect water that can be used on potted plants, etc. Be creative, save water and save your plants.
Mulch, mulch, mulch! Several inches of organic mulch around plants, especially trees and shrubs will conserve moisture by reducing evaporation from the soil surface. They also control weeds which compete with plants for water. Examples of organic mulch are shredded leaves (which are free to most of us), pine needles, or wood chips. These improve the structure of the soil as they decompose and they moderate the soil temperature. Both of these factors help plants use water efficiently.
Keep weeds, insects, and diseases under control because these stress plants and increase their water needs.
Hopefully, trying some of these suggestions will help us (and our landscapes) survive future droughts!