Pruning in General

Pruning is so tempting anytime that our trees and shrubs seem to be overgrown or are overcrowding other surroundings. If your plants are something that you value, it is crucial for you to be positive that the timing is right. A bad pruning at the wrong time could mean the demise of the plant, or at least, more than one season of a poor looking shrub or tree.

Different plants call for pruning at their own specific seasons. Very few call for any attention during the months of August, September, and October while June and July are busy months for many of our shrubs. Still others have quite a limited time for safe pruning, such as the Kolkwizia (Beauty Bush), which, it is suggested, should be pruned only in June and July. The Beautyberry is extended a little to January, February, and March and also November and December. The Acuba has only June and July. Some shrubs should be pruned only after they finish blooming, two of which are azalea and forsythia.

A good example of how certain trees call for specific considerations can be given for mature apple and pear trees. Besides limiting our major pruning to the dormant season, there are certain points which need attention. First of all, most fruit tree pruning should be for the purpose of increasing sunlight penetration, to shape the crown properly, and to remove any unproductive wood. By meeting these requirements, there should be an increase in the quality and size of fruit, as well as a more uniform ripening for the entire tree. With the open space needed, it will also be easier to hit all areas more evenly when spraying for diseases and insects. A good thought to keep in mind is to think of a fruit tree as it should be and not as a shade tree. Also remember that by late winter, the buds for the next season’s harvest will already be evident; therefore, no thought should be given to pruning as it would destroy potential fruit bearing branches.

Presently, this discussion will just involve some of the very basics of pruning. The most valuable advice is to be absolutely sure of the time of pruning and pick up the local Extension Office’s information such as “Pruning Evergreen Trees,” a “Deciduous Tree Pruning Calendar,” “Pruning Shrubs,” etc. So you see, everything is very specific to particular plants or types of plants, and there is no overall guide that would fit all of our plants at one time.

Generally, in the case of young ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as with most other plants, you can do immediate pruning at any time in the events of broken limb removal, crossed branches (especially those which are rubbing against each other), or plant parts that may be infested with a disease or predator where the situation can not be easily treated otherwise.

In the case of pruning for shape, start this early at the proper time rather than waiting until the plant is larger and has matured and is more difficult to train.

An important consideration is the choice of pruning tools; you will find that there is a wide variety of competitive products. Most gardeners learn, sooner or later, that the old saying, “the quality of a product equals what you pay for it” is absolutely true. In the long run, it pays to purchase the best pair of shears, loppers, saws, etc., that you can afford, for they can last for a lifetime when used and taken care of properly. Most of the best products are made of a good steel, which will be more expensive. Inferior products eventually will not hold their edge and also will spring out of shape, making them unusable. The best tools, shrub when they are sharp and clean, protect your tree by causing the least amount of damage.

A pair of medium weight hand-pruning shears for winter and heavy work and a hand or light pair for flower removal and summer work should be sufficient for most of your garden needs. Both of these shears should have by-pass blades for cleaner cuts rather than the anvil-type of blades. When the cuts seem to be difficult to make, the branch or stem is probably too thick for the tool being used and will require a larger one, or at the very least, switching to a pruning saw. In the case of a tear in your cut, the problem may sometimes be solved by tightening your shears. The best care of these tools calls for sharpening of the cutting blades with a whetstone occasionally and the adding of a drop of oil to the bearing. Avoid transferring any diseases from one shrub to another by wiping the blades with alcohol or mouthwash when finished. Unless you are experienced with the sharpening of your shears, it may be wise to seek the services of a professional.

You will find that your hand shears will probably take care of the major pruning in the garden. This will include soft green shoots and mature limbs approximately one-half to three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Always hold your shears firmly while placing the branch deeply into the jaws of the shears. This will help to prevent slipping and springing of the blades, and will give you more leverage. Try to make the cut a straight one, always avoiding any twisting or turning which could cause bruising and ragged cuts.

Additional pruning needs for Apple and Pear trees, some also applying to all trees in general, are:
- When trying to determine which branch of two rubbing ones to remove, take out the least productive one. This is necessary for discouraging bark injury and possible invasions of disease and/or insects.
- Removial of downward-growing branches will prohibit uneven shade as well as the rubbing of other more productive branches.
- Smaller shoots, called suckers or water sprouts, often grow out of the base of trees, especially grafted trees, and should be cut off as close to the ground as possible. They will rob the nutrients from the tree. Other such shoots may also develop in the crotches of trees, in locations of previous pruning cuts and near the top of a tree. All of these shoots should also be removed or they will soon unbalance the tree’s structure.

Written by members of the Heart of Virginia Master Gardeners

posted 3/1/07