FORCING BULBS

As summer’s final burst of flowers is over, and we pass through the vibrant colors of autumn, it is time to prepare for fresh flowers during the winter months. By forcing bulbs, you can have amaryllis and paper-white narcissus for Christmas, daffodils and tulips in January, and hyacinths for Valentines Day. Almost any spring-blooming bulb can be forced. In addition to tulips, narcissus, daffodils, and hyacinths, crocus, scilla, grape hyacinths, and lily of the valley are good candidates to brighten the winter.
To force hardy bulbs you need to mimic and compress the process the plant would undergo outdoors in the garden.
Two types of bulbs are suitable for forcing. One group requires "cold treatment," the other doesn't.
Of the non-treated variety, amaryllis and paper-whites are the most frequently used; however, freesias, calla lilies, Dutch iris, and bluebells are also in this group.
The easiest bulb to deal with is the amaryllis. Amaryllis provides a wide range of colors and forcing times and is usually sold in pre-potted packages. To start the flowering process, place the bulb in a well-lighted area and give it a good initial watering. Subsequent waterings should be light until the plant starts to grow. The time from potting to bloom is six to eight weeks. So if you want lilies for Christmas, start them in late October or early November. After they have finished blooming, cut off the flower stalk and continue to water them until after the danger of frost when you can put your bulbs, still in their pots, outside in a shady place for the summer. Keep them fertilized and watered. In September, cut off the leaves, bring them inside to a cool place, and stop watering, letting them rest until you are ready to bring them to life again.
Paper-whites are usually sold loose. To pot them you will need a four-inch pot for one bulb; six-inch pot holds three, and a seven-inch pot, five or six. Loosely fill the container with clean gravel chips or pea gravel to about an inch from the rim. Place the bulbs so they're not touching and their necks stick out about one-half inch above the gravel surface. Fill with water to just below the gravel, and set the container in a cool location. If you use a non-draining, shallow bulb pan, take care not to overwater as this can cause rot. For best results, place the pots in a dark location with temperatures from 40 to 55 degrees F. for two weeks, or until the leaves are two to four inches tall and vigorous roots develop. Then bring into the light and warmer temperatures. Your bulbs will bloom in three to six weeks.
The other group of bulbs, those requiring a cold treatment of 12-15 weeks at 40 to 50 degrees, includes tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, grape hyacinths, snow drops, and crocuses. Begin by gathering some containers. Either plastic or clay pots may be used. The containers should be at least twice as deep as the bulbs are tall .Make sure that they are clean; soak clay pots a few hours before using.
When shopping for bulbs it is important to get first rate ones since they contain all the food used to produce blossoms. Look for firm, good-sized bulbs; select varieties that are not too tall. Cold treatment for your bulbs can be provided by a cold frame, an unheated attic or cellar, or even your refrigerator. In the refrigerator, the pots should be covered with plastic bags that have a few air holes punched in them. For soil use a mixture of equal parts of potting soil, sand, and perlite.
Plant bulbs with the pointed ends up, as close together as possible without letting them touch. Usually, you can fit into a 6-inch pot six tulip bulbs, three hyacinths, six daffodils, or 15 crocus. Tulip and other bulbs with a flat side should be planted with the flat side facing the edge of the container. This will allow the first leaves to form a border around the edge of the pot. Add enough soil mix to fill the pot, and water the bulbs thoroughly to settle the soil around the bulbs.